{iStyle} NYFW SS10 Day 5

Oh, I might just finally catch up. I think Day 5 was interesting, because many of these designers departed from their usual without getting to whacky.

Barbara Tfank – Attention fan’s of Mad Men! I present to you your dream designer. Tfank’s collection was all Betty and Joan with lovely prints, ladylike 60’s silhouettes, and a very wearable run of colors. Makes you want to wiggle like Joan, doesn’t it?

Bibhu Mohapatra – This is Mohapatra’s 2nd show, but he’s doing ok. He used airy fabrics in this colleciton inspired by his own x-rays. {It seems that a few designers have been inspired by human anatomy. I wonder if this has anything to do with the wild popularity of Rodarte’s ribcage dresses of past season.}

Carlos Miele – Whether it was whim or economy, Miele offered up shirts, pants, and the like along with his famous gowns in bright tropical colors and then some nudes and black for good measure. Above are 4 of my favorites, but the entire collection is worth a look.

Carolina Herrera – Ay, mi amor Carolina! Why did you use such bulky fabrics? An expert on gowns, Herrera’s more casual looks were hit or miss. Some were great and others just felt off. The bright colors didn’t mesh with the bulk.

Chris Benz – Sensible? That word doesn’t exist in Chris Benz’s vocabulary. Benz through caution to the wind and decided he’d make collection for fun’s sake. Multi-colored polka-dots and marabou, sequins, and plenty of frills. There was a little sporty and a little forties. Benz’s collection isn’t for the masses. It’s for the girl brave enough to wear something so playful that heads will turn.

Devi Kroell – Not exactly something to write home about. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t great. There were some very beautifully constructed pieces. According to other reviews, Kroell even sent a leather dipped in neoprene trenchcoat down the runway. I’m all for innovation, but it just seems like a bit too much and not enough focus on cohesion. I hated the color palette (maroon in spring? really?) and those stupid ruffled plackets down the front of anything button down.

Donna Karan – Nothing like her DKNY mess. Karan’s namesake line did a stellar job here. The words ethereal and diaphonous come to mind. She used the right amount of sheer in all the right places. Her cut was fluid, and she wrapped and draped her fabrics so that they didn’t add a single ounce of bulk. Karan managed to make the mostly gray collection look light and airy. Of course, she did send this season’s hot color, orange down the runway in a few garments, but absent was any trace of black. Now that’s a big feat for a new yorker.

Douglas Hannant – Hanant is known for his high-work, high-priced gowns, and he will continue to be so known with this show. Besides his most formal gowns and a few of the grecians, I didn’t find anything that impressive here. In fact, I feel like some of these items look prom dresses. Hannant could have edited better.

J. Mendel – I should have been born an heiress so I could afford to prance around in J. Mendel’s collection all day. Girlish, detailed, and chic. It’s a fairytale come true in the loveliest pale shades of blue, cream, pink, a bright yellow, and nudes. I’d be surprised if {This is Glamorous} doesn’t post a few pictures either from the runway or if their is an editorial. And you know that I’ll be using his images on {Bits of Beauty} for sure.

Jill Stuart – Whoa! Identity crisis at Jill Stuart much? How to go from years of this to what walked down the runway this show without losing your fan-base? Stuart aimed for 70’s rock chick and got hooker instead. Half the looks were down-right skanky and cheap looking.

Julian Louie – When you look at shots of Louie’s entire collection on one page, you see a sunset. Warm nudes and sheer panels were the thing here. His cut teetered between flowy and structured, to produce a retail friendly line. My only issue is the occassional stupid ruffle on the hip which made some items look like they had fins.

Lutz & Patmos – Known for their sweater, Lutz & Patmos tried their hardest to make sweaters so light that you could wear them on a summer day. (Tell them to send one to Florida, and I’ll test that theory.) They presented us with gray, nude, navy, black, and fuschia in shorts, easy sweaters that looked like tees, a few dresses, and a smatter of pants. Nothing seemed like it would stick to the body, thank goodness. Retail-buyers rejoice.

Marc Jacobs – If you asked MJ what his inspiration was, you’d be tired and dizzy from the list he’d spin you. Let’s just sum it up to two points: 1. Theater and 2. Be different. At times, things felt a bit overwhelming. Of course, Jacob’s styles his models in a way that doesn’t translate to the street. You have to pick apart the outfits, piece by piece to really see the beauty and that you can actually wear this stuff. And in keeping with being different, Jacobs used a muted color palette that didn’t really compare to any other designer this week: black, white, gray, green, blue, burgundy, and a touch of lilac.

Sophie Theallet – Seeing chocolate brown in Spring is an unexpected sight, but in the hands of Theallet, a welcomed one. Theallet gave us more orange and bright pink, a muted greenish-blue, red, plum, and black in variety of dresses with the occassional shorts or pants.

Thakoon – blue, black, nude. Personally, I’m not crazy for Thakoon, although he has a huge following in the fashion world. I did like his draping, which looked like a fitted body had yards of light fabric wrapped around the shoulders down across the body and around again; it was a very skillful bit of execution. I also liked his prints. I could not say that I’m a fan of some of his more structured, paneled looks.

Tracy Reese – Reese made good use of prints. Her collection was entirely wearable. You can see that Reese kept consumer’s and the current economic state in mind while still aiming for pieces that aren’t too plain.

Zac Posen – Incredibly colorful and quirky collection, Posen made the whackiness of it all work with traditional silhouettes. Not for the serious.

Zero + Maria Cornejo – Minimalist and utilitarian, but not in a sterile way. Composed of mostly white and black with some of that muted seafoam and a gorgeous blue and white print that made you imagine water. Cornejo’s collection was urban and soft, with crop pants, jumpsuits, tunics and dresses that you could live your life in.

All images {via} Style.com edited for the Little Pink Book

Jenn Ortiz is a graduate of the University of Florida with degrees in History and Latin American Studies with hopes to pursue a PhD in Child Development. She believes there is beauty in everything around us; from the inside out, outside in. She currently runs {Bits of Beauty} a place you just feel good about and guest blogs for Design Tavern and Wishpot.

Comments

  1. love, love, love DKNY — I saw some of those on the backstage TwitPics on Twitter πŸ™‚

    By far, my favourite is Marc Jacobs. I always love Marc Jacobs. I saw this show with him in IFC about Fashion Week and his work w/ LV in Paris — he's seriously an inspiration. So hardworking, so dedicated — he just pushes, and pushes, and pushes to get what he wants, how he wants it and let's his creative juices fly… I heart him.

    Also, I was on The NYT fashion website and they have this video on the makeup for NYFW for Marc Jacobs — it's like Caberet meets Ballerina Barbie. I really liked it. It's different. But to be honest, I wouldn't have expected that for Spring. To me, that mix is way more Fall makeup.

    Great most as always, Jenn. I've really been enjoying your Fashion Week recaps!

    I can't wait to see the rest of your posts and what you put together for the men's fashions!

    Keep up the great work!!!

  2. Oh on that note — you should online stalk Anna Wintour & include that in your posts!

    I mean I know she was all tennis-happy. But no one is writing about my favourite editarix and Fashion Week.

    Last I heard she was in tennis before Marc Jacobs and she smiled during Fashion's Night Out.

    πŸ™

  3. Wow! the Bibhu Mohapatra collection was so sophisticated and refined.

    This blogger must not have been there to see it in person.

  4. I love this blog! Will come again next time for sure,

  5. Thanks πŸ™‚
    Glad you enjoyed it,
    Best wishes,

    Sasha

  6. Thanks πŸ™‚
    Glad you enjoyed it,
    Best wishes,

    Sasha

  7. Thanks πŸ™‚

    Glad you enjoyed it,

    Best wishes,

    Sasha